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rust
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Date: Thursday, 26/Feb/09, 8.58 PM | Message # 1 |
 Major
Group: Members
Posts: 91
Status: Offline
From: 21/Feb/09
I seem to have a problem, my van hasn't coped well with the winter! It seems to have quite a bit of rust around the wheel arches and bonnet. My man is usless .. what do i do? Von x
new to this be nice to me please x | |
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Date: Friday, 27/Feb/09, 4.34 PM | Message # 2 |
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Webmaster
Group: Admin
Posts: 4789
Status: Offline
From: 27/Jan/09
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Get rid of your man, MAYBE  ,[you sound like my ideal women as my missus doesn't like my van where as you clearly do like T4's we could be a 2 T4 family how sweet]
Or what would most likely be the best idea would be to get a bit of sandpaper and rub the wheel arches down to bare metal, [when its shiny], having done this to all affected arches, coat with "Rustolen" or such like rust curer and preventer and coat with Hammerite paint as close to your colour of van.
But wait before you do that you need to buy a set of either black plastic wheelarch covers or some natty lillte chrome numbers depending on what colour your van is, some don't like thE chrome ones on dArk coloured vans mine is white and will be getting treated to a set sometime soon if i keep her, [the van not the missus]. The reason you need the arches first is you will need to know how far to treat and paint with the hammerite wont you ??, but a good rule of thumb is a little don't go mad just round the lip if you can get away with it, before fitting, then silicone round all eges and a fix the over arches to the vehicle and Bob's your uncle a nice clean looking van. The Black plastic ones are available from Just Kampers but are very expensie at £100 - £150 ish for all 4 and the chrome ones are a lot cheaper and in my humble opinion far nicer looking anyway as they add the all inportant "BLING" , to yer thing. Hope that helps, i have been up all night very tired now, so haven't got the energy to look for exact prices but if you "Google" it VW T4 overarches, or chrome arches, you will get them and Just Kampers defo do the plastic ones. See guys i'm not just a pretty face then am i, anything else just ask, and i am sure someone will be along in a moment to throw my great ideas out the window with some clever cure but hey ho, that's life, so come on guys help this damsel in destress..
T4/T5 Club UK and its domains are currently up for sale due to severe illness of its owner, if you beleive you have what it takes to run it get in touch TODAY (note the community is NOT at risk and will continue in any situation) |
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Date: Friday, 27/Feb/09, 11.53 PM | Message # 3 |
 Lieutenant general
Group: Members
Posts: 773
Status: Offline
From: 24/Feb/09
i would grind them up with a good wire disk or cup, few good coats of rust converter, then prime with zinc rich primer then top coat, hammerite paint is a waste of time, its just crap paint, check the inside of the arch too if the sealer isn't good then clean it off best you can rust treat then stikaflex or brushable seam sealer paint then waxoyl and plenty of it, don't use silicone, you wont be able to paint it your end up with hammerite hammered finish, if its to bad the cut and replace it
northernclassicsandcampers.co.uk? | |
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Date: Thursday, 05/Mar/09, 4.18 PM | Message # 4 |
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Webmaster
Group: Admin
Posts: 4789
Status: Offline
From: 27/Jan/09
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Again i would agree to disagree, with my learned friend, having used Hammerite for many years on many different projects, restos and houshold items, and found it to be as good quality paint and rust treatment as there is available to the DIY market, but i'm sure we can all live and learn. I might just try one of Rays ways next time i have to tackle anything similar
T4/T5 Club UK and its domains are currently up for sale due to severe illness of its owner, if you beleive you have what it takes to run it get in touch TODAY (note the community is NOT at risk and will continue in any situation) |
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Date: Saturday, 07/Mar/09, 10.43 AM | Message # 5 |
 Generalissimo
Group: Moderators
Posts: 2343
Status: Offline
From: 20/Feb/09
Hiya. Have to get my oar in too. There's a great paint called Galvafroid which is supposed to be a cold galvanising fluid. It weighs a ton and takes forever to stir up but I had a bad rust patch on the Caddy that I roughly ground and just painted with it. It has been out all winter without top coat and the rust still has not broken through. I too have some bits on the T4 rear arches which will be done in the next couple of weeks. My biggest problem with all the vans has been getting the right shade of white. Last time I did it I had a can of spray made up from the paint code and it still looks a mile out, despite compounding beforehand. I do have a shotblaster which is great but now I am working on the drive, I don't think my neighbour would like his Audi covering in black dust. Cheers, Chas.
Chas! [Social Convener] | |
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Date: Saturday, 07/Mar/09, 12.06 PM | Message # 6 |
Lieutenant general
Group: Members
Posts: 773
Status: Offline
From: 24/Feb/09
are you sure its galvafroid, thought that was for touching up galvanized bit that have been ground or repaired, mind it would make sense, you can get a pylon paint that sounds the same
northernclassicsandcampers.co.uk? | |
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Date: Sunday, 08/Mar/09, 1.54 PM | Message # 7 |
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Webmaster
Group: Admin
Posts: 4789
Status: Offline
From: 27/Jan/09
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Pylon as in electric pylon paint ?? now theres an idea as you don't see them rusting all that often, personally a tin or two of the paint they use for the Forth Road Bridge would do me nicely  I used to many years ago in my "Mini" days, be able to get barrels of road tar, the stuff they use for filling the gaps between where they have patched holes etc, it was thick liquidy stuff, which when painted on as sealer was brilliant as it was a bit like mastic in the fact that when stones chipped it as it was still tacky below it would self fill the chip sealing itself as if by magic  Sadly like all things supplys and "friends" who supply dry up, and life moves on and we find something else, many of the Minis i sold after full resto, had well slapped undersides so to speak.
T4/T5 Club UK and its domains are currently up for sale due to severe illness of its owner, if you beleive you have what it takes to run it get in touch TODAY (note the community is NOT at risk and will continue in any situation) |
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Date: Sunday, 08/Mar/09, 8.02 PM | Message # 8 |
Lieutenant general
Group: Members
Posts: 773
Status: Offline
From: 24/Feb/09
years ago i used to get some acid etch primer from cleveland bridge that burnt your hand if it dripped on it, and proper eat its way in to the metal, the only way of getting it off was by grinding the stuff off, wish i could still get that
northernclassicsandcampers.co.uk? | |
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Date: Sunday, 08/Mar/09, 9.07 PM | Message # 9 |
Generalissimo
Group: Moderators
Posts: 2343
Status: Offline
From: 20/Feb/09
Yeah it's definitely Galvafroid Ray. It seems to be compatible with celly too. I did my old R reg Inca with it two years ago, ground all the rear arches and the bit around the cube that goes bad. It's not come back through yet. Seems to dry rapidly but I usually leave a day before topcoating with primer then colour. Used to use the red lead under my triumph before it got outlawed. Hard to find really good stuff nowadays, most of it seems to have been banned. Cheers, Chas.
Chas! [Social Convener] | |
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Date: Sunday, 08/Mar/09, 9.46 PM | Message # 10 |
Lieutenant general
Group: Members
Posts: 773
Status: Offline
From: 24/Feb/09
Quote (listensqueak) . Used to use the red lead under my triumph before it got outlawed. Hard to find really good stuff nowadays, most of it seems to have been banned.
Cheers, Chas.
yeah eu laws and globle warming to blame
northernclassicsandcampers.co.uk? | |
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Date: Monday, 09/Mar/09, 5.04 PM | Message # 11 |
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Webmaster
Group: Admin
Posts: 4789
Status: Offline
From: 27/Jan/09
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The worlds gone bonkers
It has been confirmed now banning paints that have been used the world over for many many yaers now all of a sudden thay are dangerous for us WHY ???
T4/T5 Club UK and its domains are currently up for sale due to severe illness of its owner, if you beleive you have what it takes to run it get in touch TODAY (note the community is NOT at risk and will continue in any situation) |
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Date: Tuesday, 10/Mar/09, 8.17 PM | Message # 12 |
Generalissimo
Group: Moderators
Posts: 2343
Status: Offline
From: 20/Feb/09
Nanny State perhaps Doug. EU laws perhaps, Someone somewhere has always got to spoil stuff. They even took the windows out of the smoking shelter at work so I inhaled less second hand smoke. Now I cant read my paper cos it blows all over. Can't smoke in the pub anymore, cant take your drink outside while you have a fag. I like my vices. Oops, I should be in the moaning forum. I have a little rust just appearing on my arches but I think a flap wheel will be good enough. Two of those dents that appear along the flat panels on the side too. Just got a ding king today so I'll let you know if it works. Will be cheaper than a can of filler if it does. I will blog the results. Cheers, Chas.
Chas! [Social Convener] | |
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Date: Wednesday, 11/Mar/09, 2.35 PM | Message # 13 |
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Webmaster
Group: Admin
Posts: 4789
Status: Offline
From: 27/Jan/09
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A ding king sound sinteresting if not possibly a bit pervy do tell all in intruiged now 
T4/T5 Club UK and its domains are currently up for sale due to severe illness of its owner, if you beleive you have what it takes to run it get in touch TODAY (note the community is NOT at risk and will continue in any situation) |
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Date: Saturday, 21/Mar/09, 6.28 PM | Message # 14 |
 Major general
Group: Members
Posts: 286
Status: Offline
From: 19/Mar/09
Ray is right, Galvafroid is used after fettling in galv shops ,,,,,used to have a galvanising plant a few years ago. It should do the trick it's produced specialy for bare metal. we used to use pylon paint as well ,same stuff but dries practicly as you'r applying it. 
Stan | |
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Date: Saturday, 21/Mar/09, 8.55 PM | Message # 15 |
 Major general
Group: Members
Posts: 311
Status: Offline
From: 20/Feb/09
 Must remember to fit some pylons before I use Galvafroid. No offense Stan just my sense of humour !! Stew
Stewart & Joan
Living the Dream!!
http://stewnjo.blogspot.com | |
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Date: Sunday, 22/Mar/09, 9.33 AM | Message # 16 |
Lieutenant general
Group: Members
Posts: 773
Status: Offline
From: 24/Feb/09
mine it is very hard work to stop the rust once it gets hold, but if ya keep on top of it and seal it up right and loads of waxoyl, it will help, Ive not had time to do mine properly yet but give them a good wire bush on a grinder rust treat , prime an paint, just to stop them getting worse, but its once a year, the next time i will blast them in side and out, might even paint the whole bus if i get the chance, as it still in the original paint
northernclassicsandcampers.co.uk? | |
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Date: Sunday, 22/Mar/09, 3.36 PM | Message # 17 |
Generalissimo
Group: Moderators
Posts: 2343
Status: Offline
From: 20/Feb/09
The Ding King is one of those dent removing tools that you stick to the dent and fix a clamp to. It's supposed to pull out the dent. If I manage to get it to stick to the paintwork, I might have some success. All I have managed so far is a red face and early beer.
Chas! [Social Convener] | |
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Date: Sunday, 22/Mar/09, 6.57 PM | Message # 18 |
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Webmaster
Group: Admin
Posts: 4789
Status: Offline
From: 27/Jan/09
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Yip
The evil Rust is almost unstoppable but look on the brightside we don't have Bays  as the whole forum would be taken over with rust talk, as to a lesser degree would be the case if it were a T3 community [sorry all T2 and T3 onwers sadly it's the truth] sad but a true fact of both T2 and T3 ownership which is why i chose a T4 after all , i have rust, well not me you undersatnd but my bus does, although only really stone chips etc nothing to really worry about, but it will be ok shortly, got a sand blaster but doubt i will ever get around to using it a is say i have a good friend, who will hopefully do it all for me when the weather cheers up a bit Stew
I reckon your bus will look quite well with a pylon sticking out of it's pop top
T4/T5 Club UK and its domains are currently up for sale due to severe illness of its owner, if you beleive you have what it takes to run it get in touch TODAY (note the community is NOT at risk and will continue in any situation) |
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Date: Sunday, 22/Mar/09, 8.03 PM | Message # 19 |
Major general
Group: Members
Posts: 311
Status: Offline
From: 20/Feb/09
The T25 (T3) we have before our T4 was pretty rust free which was a bonus for an 18yr old. As for the pylon Dougie folks might think I was one of these Google earth guys............... beam up up Scotie!!!!!!! Stew
Stewart & Joan
Living the Dream!!
http://stewnjo.blogspot.com | |
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Date: Sunday, 22/Mar/09, 8.44 PM | Message # 20 |
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Webmaster
Group: Admin
Posts: 4789
Status: Offline
From: 27/Jan/09
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Bad vibes my man
Googleearth is not the best or most PC subject right now
Remember were non confronational on here
T4/T5 Club UK and its domains are currently up for sale due to severe illness of its owner, if you beleive you have what it takes to run it get in touch TODAY (note the community is NOT at risk and will continue in any situation) |
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Date: Thursday, 26/Mar/09, 8.20 PM | Message # 21 |
Major general
Group: Members
Posts: 286
Status: Offline
From: 19/Mar/09
got no rust but my painted bumpers have got shrapnel wounds all over em. need painting . my local motor factor makes spray cans to your coulor code, just ordered 2 twice as big as the usual car shop things ,,,cost £14-oo each.
Stan | |
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Date: Thursday, 26/Mar/09, 8.28 PM | Message # 22 |
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Webmaster
Group: Admin
Posts: 4789
Status: Offline
From: 27/Jan/09
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Whooo hope yer good with a spray can.
I never was although my pal who is doing mine is s++t hot, at it and can blend paint so you would never ever know!!!! as nothing worse than a badly can painted spray job in my opinion if you are not brilliant with a can you would, be best leaving well alone as the and result if most often far worse than what you were trying to paint out in the first place, i have seen some really shoody bumper paints. [not saying your no good at it incidentally]
T4/T5 Club UK and its domains are currently up for sale due to severe illness of its owner, if you beleive you have what it takes to run it get in touch TODAY (note the community is NOT at risk and will continue in any situation) |
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Date: Thursday, 26/Mar/09, 8.54 PM | Message # 23 |
Lieutenant general
Group: Members
Posts: 773
Status: Offline
From: 24/Feb/09
good tip warm the paint up in some hot water, and light even coats don't try to cover in one go
northernclassicsandcampers.co.uk? | |
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Date: Thursday, 26/Mar/09, 9.02 PM | Message # 24 |
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Webmaster
Group: Admin
Posts: 4789
Status: Offline
From: 27/Jan/09
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Date: Thursday, 26/Mar/09, 9.04 PM | Message # 25 |
Lieutenant general
Group: Members
Posts: 773
Status: Offline
From: 24/Feb/09
northernclassicsandcampers.co.uk? | |
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